COMMON PAINT PROBLEMS
By buying a quality brand of paint like Parker Paint you can be assured that it is unlikely that the paint is at fault. It is a common misconception that a paint failure is due to the paint product applied. Paint failures are more commonly the result of a variety of external factors.

Exterior Failures: Aligatoring: Blistering: Cracking/Flaking: Effloessence: Mildew: Nail Head Rusting: Paint Incompatability: Peeling: Vinyl Siding Warp: Wrinkling:

Interior Failures: Burnishing: Cracking/Flaking: Foaming/Cratering: Mildew: Picture Framing: Poor Hiding: Poor Stain Resistance: Roller Marks/Stipple: Surfactant Leaching: Wrinkling

EXTERIOR FAILURES

ALLIGATORING (top)
Patterned cracking in the surface of the paint film resembling the regular scales of an alligator.

POSSIBLE CAUSES:

Application of an extremely hard, rigid coating, like an alkyd enamel, over a more flexible coating, like a latex primer.

Application of a top coat before the undercoat is dry. Natural aging of oil-based paints as temperatures fluctuate. The constant expansion and contraction results in a loss of paint film elasticity.

SOLUTION:

Old paint should be completely removed by scraping and sanding the surface; a heat gun can be used to speed work on large surfaces, but take care to avoid igniting paint or substrate. The surface should be primed with a high quality latex or oil-based primer, then painted with a top quality exterior latex paint.

BLISTERING:(top)

Blistering is the formation of bubbles resulting from localized loss of adhesion and lifting of the paint film from the underlying surface.

POSSIBLE CAUSES:

Painting in direct sunlight or on a surface that is too warm, especially when applying a dark-colored solvent-based coating applying an oil-based or alkyd paint over a damp or wet surface
excess humidity or other moisture escaping from inside through the exterior walls (less likely with latex paints, which allow water vapor to escape without affecting the paint film) exposure of a latex paint film to excessive moisture in the form of dew, high humidity or rain shortly after the paint has dried, especially if there was inadequate surface preparation and/or a lower quality paint was applied

SOLUTION:

First, determine whether or not the blisters go all the way down to the substrate.
If they go down to the substrate, the problem may be due to moisture coming from inside. Take steps to remove the source of moisture, if possible. Repair loose caulk and consider installing vents or exhaust fans. If the building has wood siding, install siding vents in areas where blistering has occurred. Remove blisters by scraping and sanding, prime any areas where bare wood shows, and repaint.

If the blisters do not go all the way to the substrate, the problem is probably not related to moisture coming from behind. Rather, the blisters are likely from painting a warm surface in direct sunlight or exposing the paint film to excessive moisture. In any case, sand, scrape and then prime any exposed bare wood. Coat with a top quality acrylic latex exterior paint.

CRACKING / FLAKING:(top)

The splitting of a dry paint film through at least one coat, which will lead to complete failure of the paint. Early on, the problem appears as hairline cracks; later, flaking of paint chips occurs.

POSSIBLE CAUSE:

Use of a lower quality paint that has inadequate adhesion and flexibility. Overthinning the paint or spreading it t(x) thin. Poor surface preparation, especially when the paint is applied to bare wood without priming. Painting under cool or windy conditions that make latex paint dry too fast.

SOLUTION:

It may be possible to correct cracking that does not go down to the substrate by removing the loose or flaking paint with a scraper or wire brush, sanding to feather the edges, priming any bare spots and repainting. If the cracking goes down to the substrate, remove all of the paint by scraping, sanding and/or use of a heat gun; then prime and repaint with a quality exterior latex paint.

EFFLORESCENCE:(top)

Efflorescence is the formation of crusty, white salt deposits, leached from mortar or masonry as water passes through it.

POSSIBLE CAUSES:

failure to adequately prepare surface by removing all previous efflorescence
excess moisture escaping through the exterior walls from the inside.
SOLUTION:

If excess moisture is the cause, eliminate the source by repairing the roof, cleaning gutters and downspouts and sealing any cracks in the masonry using a quality water-based all-acrylic or siliconized acrylic caulk. If moist air is originating inside the building, consider installing vents or exhaust fans, especially in kitchen, bathroom and laundry areas. Remove all efflorescence and loose material from the masonry with a wire brush, power brush or power washer; then rinse. Apply a masonry sealer and allow it to dry completely; then apply a coat of top quality exterior house paint, masonry paint.

MILDEW:(top)

Mildew is the formation of brown, black or gray spots or blotches on the surface of paint or caulk due to the presence of fungi that feed on the paint film and other organic matter.

POSSIBLE CAUSES:

damp areas that receive little or no direct sunlight (thus, such areas as walls with a northern exposure and the underside of eaves are particularly vulnerable) use of a lower quality paint with an insufficient amount of mildewcide painting over a substrate or coating on which mildew is present failure to prime bare wood before painting

SOLUTION:

First, make sure that the discoloration really is mildew, and not just dirt. Apply a few drops of household bleach to it, wait five minutes, then rinse. If the dark color disappears, the discoloration is probably mildew. Remove all mildew by scrubbing with a diluted household bleach solution (one part bleach, three parts water). Be sure to take the proper safety precautions -- wear rubber gloves and eye protection. Leave the bleach on the surface for several minutes, then rinse. Next, thoroughly clean the surface with a detergent solution to remove dirt and other organic material on which mildew can feed. This can be done by hand or with a power washer. Rinse again. When the surface is dry, apply one or two coats of top quality acrylic latex paint -- this type of paint contains extra mildewcide and will resist mildew better than oil-based or alkyd paints.

NAILHEAD RUSTING:(top)

Reddish-brown stains on the paint surface.

POSSIBLE CAUSE

Non-galvanized iron nails have begun to rust, causing bleed-through to the top coat.
Non-galvanized iron nails have not been countersunk and filled over.
Galvanized nailheads have begun to rust after sanding or excessive weathering.

SOLUTION:

When painting new exterior construction where non-galvanized nails have been used, it is advisable to first countersink the nailheads, then caulk them with a top quality, water-based all-acrylic or siliconized acrylic caulk. Each nailhead area should be spot primed, then painted with a quality latex coating. When repainting exteriors where nailhead rusting has occurred, wash off rust stains, sand the nailheads, then follow the same surface preparation procedures as for new construction.

PAINT INCOMPATIBILITY:(top)

Loss of adhesion where many old coats of alkyd or oil-based paint receive a latex top coat.

POSSIBLE CAUSE:

Use of water-based latex paint over more than three or four coats of old alkyd or oil-based paint may cause the old paint to "lift off" the substrate.

SOLUTION:

Repaint using another coat of alkyd or oil-based paint. Or completely remove the existing paint and prepare the surface cleaning, sanding and spot-priming where necessary - before repainting with a top quality latex exterior paint.

PEELING:(top)

Spontaneous loss of ribbons or sheets of paint due to loss of adhesion. When the surface is coated with a primer and topcoat, or with several coats of paint, the peeling may involve all the coats, some of them, or just the topcoat.

POSSIBLE CAUSES:

Swelling of wood due to seepage or penetration of rain, humidity and other forms of moisture into the home through uncaulked joints, deteriorated caulk, leaking roof or other areas excess humidity or other moisture escaping from within the home through the exterior walls (less likely with latex paints, which allow water vapor to escape without affecting the paint film) inadequate surface preparation use of a lower quality paint that has inadequate adhesion and flexibility characteristics applying latex paint under conditions that hinder good film formation, e.g., on a very hot or cold day; in windy weather applying an oil-based paint over a damp or wet surface.

SOLUTION:

If exterior moisture is the cause, eliminate the source by doing necessary repairs and maintenance:replace caulking; repair roof; clean gutters and downspouts; cut heavy vegetation away from the building. If moist air is originating from inside, consider installing vents (especially in rooms that tend to get humid such as the kitchen, bathroom and laundry room); attic louvers, exhaust fans and dehumidifiers may also help. Remove all loose paint with a scraper or wire brush, sand rough surfaces and prime any bare wood. Repaint with a top quality acrylic latex paint -- it will provide excellent adhesion and allow water vapor to escape without harming the coating.

VINYL SIDING WARP:(top)

Warping or buckling of Vinyl siding panels that have been repainted.

POSSIBLE CAUSE:

Most likely cause is that vinyl siding was repainted with a darker color paint than the original color. Dark paint tends to absorb the beat of the sun, transferring it to the substrate. When vinyl siding expands dramatically, it is not able to contract to its original dimensions.

SOLUTION:

Paint vinyl siding in a shade no darker than the original. Whites, off-whites, pastels and other very light colors are good choices. Top quality acrylic latex paint is the best type of paint to use on vinyl siding, because the superior flexibility of the paint film enables it to withstand the stress of expansion and contraction cycles caused by outdoor tem-perature changes. Siding that has warped or buckled should be assessed by a siding or home repair contractor to determine the best remedy. The siding may have to be replaced.


WRINKLING:(top)

A rough, crinkled paint surface Occurring when paint forms a "skin."

POSSIBLE CAUSES:

Paint applied too thickly (more likely when using alkyd or oil-based paints).
Painting a hot surface or in very hot weather.
Exposure of uncured paint to rain, dew, fog or high humidity levels. Applying top coat of paint to insufficiently dried first coat. Painting over contaminated surface (e.g., dirt or

SOLUTION:

Scrape or sand substrate to remove wrinkled coating. Repaint, applying an even coat of top quality exterior paint. Make sure the first coat or primer is dry before applying the top coat. Apply paints at the manufacturer's recommended spread rate (two coats at the recommended spread rate are better than one thick coat). When painting during extremely hot, cool or damp weather, allow extra time for the paint to dry completely.

INTERIOR FAILURES

BURNISHING:(top)

Increase in gloss or sheen of paint film when subjected to rubbing, scrubbing or having an object brush up against it.

POSSIBLE CAUSES:

Use of flat paint in highly trafficked areas, where a higher sheen level would be desirable. Frequent washing and spot cleaning. Objects (furniture, for example) rubbing against the walls. Use of lower grades of paint with poor stain and scrub resistance

SOLUTION:

Paint heavy wear areas that require regular cleaning (e.g., doors, window sills and trim) with top quality latex paint, because this type of paint offers both durability and easier cleaning capability. In high traffic areas, choose a semigloss or gloss rather than a flat sheen level. Clean painted surfaces with a soft cloth or sponge and non-abrasive cleansers; rinse with clean water.

CRACKING/FLAKING:(top)

The splitting of a dry paint film through at least one coat as a result of aging, which ultimately will lead to complete failure of the paint. In its early stages, the problem appears as hairline cracks; in its layer stages, flaking occurs.

POSSIBLE CAUSES:

Use of lower quality paint that has inadequate adhesion and flexibility. Overthinning or overspreading the paint. Inadequate surface preparation, or applying the paint to bare wood without first applying a primer.
Excessive hardening and embrittlement of alkyd paint as the paint job ages.

SOLUTION:

Remove loose and flaking paint with a scraper or wire brush, sanding the surface and feathering the edges. If the flaking occurs in multiple layers of paint, use of a filler may be necessary. Prime bare wood areas before repainting. Use of a top quality primer and top coat should prevent a recurrence of the problem.

FOAMING / CRATERING:(top)

Formation of bubbles (foaming) and resulting small, round concave depressions (cratering) when bubbles break in a paint film, during paint application and drying.

POSSIBLE CAUSE:

Shaking a partially filled can of paint. Use of low quality paint or very old latex paint.
Applying (especially rolling) paint too rapidly. Use of a roller cover with wrong nap length. Excessive rolling or brushing of the paint. Applying a gloss or semigloss paint over a porous surface.
SOLUTION:

All paints will foam to some degree during application; however, higher quality paints are formulated so the bubbles break while the paint is still wet, allowing for good flow and appearance. Avoid excessive rolling or brushing of the paint or using paint that is more than a year old. Apply gloss and semigloss paints with a short nap roller, and apply an appropriate sealer or primer before using such paint over a porous surface. Problem areas should be sanded before repainting.

MILDEW:(top)

Mildew is the formation of black, gray or brown spots or areas on the surface of paint or caulk.

POSSIBLE CAUSES:

warm, moist, humid conditions (bathrooms, kitchens, laundry rooms) use of an alkyd or oil-based paint, or lower quality latex paint failure to prime bare wood before painting painting over a surface from which mildew has not been completely removed

SOLUTION:

First test for mildew by applying a few drops of bleach to the area; if it can be bleached away, it is probably mildew. Remove all mildew from the surface by scrubbing with a household bleach solution (one part bleach, three parts water). Be sure to observe safety precautions -- wear rubber gloves and eye protection. Rinse thoroughly. To protect against further mildew, use a top quality acrylic latex paint. These paints tend to have more mildewcide than do lower quality paints and will resist the formation of mildew. Clean the surface as needed with a bleach or detergent solution. Consider installing exhaust fans in high moisture areas.

PICTURE FRAMING:(top)

An effect of non-uniform color that can appear when a wall is painted with a roller, but is brushed at the comers. The brushed areas generally appear darker, resembling the "frame" of a "picture." Also, sprayed areas may be darker than neighboring sections that are brushed or rolled. Picture framing can also refer to sheen effects.

POSSIBLE CAUSE

Usually a hiding (coverage) effect. Brushing will generally result in lower spread rates than rolling, producing a thicker film and more hiding.
Adding colorant to a non-tintable paint or using the wrong type or level of colorant.

SOLUTION:

Make sure that spread rates with brushes and rollers are similar. Don't cut in the entire room before roller coating. Work in smaller sections of the room to maintain a "wet edge." With tinted paints, he sure the correct colorant-base combinations are used. Factory colors, as well as in-store tints, should be thoroughly shaken at time of sale.

POOR HIDING:(top)

Failure of dried paint to obscure or "hide" the surface to which it is applied.

POSSIBLE CAUSE:

Use of a low quality paint.
Use of low quality tools/wrong roller cover.
Use of an improper combination of tinting base and tinting color.
Poor flow and leveling (see Poor Flow / Leveling). Use of a paint that is much lighter in color than the substrate, or that primarily contains low-hiding organic pigments. Application of paint at a higher spread rate than recommended.

SOLUTION:

If the substrate is significantly darker or is a patterned wallpaper, it should be primed before applying a top coat. Use a top quality paint for better hiding and flow. Use quality tools, use the recommended roller nap, if rolling. Follow manufacturer's recommendation on spread rate; if using tinted paint, use the correct tinting base. Where a low-hiding organic color must be used, apply a primer first.

POOR STAIN RESISTANCE:(top)

Failure of the paint to resist absorption of dirt and stains.

POSSIBLE CAUSES:

use of a lower quality paint applying paint to an unprimed substrate

SOLUTION:

Use a high quality acrylic latex paint -- it contains more binder, which helps keep stains from penetrating the paint film, allowing for easier removal. Prime new surfaces for maximum film thickness, which results in easier stain removal.

ROLLER MARKS "STIPPLE"(top)

Unintentional textured pattern left in the paint by the roller.

POSSIBLE CAUSE:

Use of incorrect roller cover
Use of lower grades of paint.
Use of low quality roller.
Use of incorrect rolling technique.

SOLUTION:

Use the proper roller covet; avoid too long a nap for the paint and the substrate. Use quality rollers to ensure adequate film thickness and uniformity. High quality paints tend to roll on more evenly due to their higher solids content and leveling properties. Pre-dampen roller covers used with latex paint; shake out excess water. Don't let paint build up at roller ends. Begin rolling at a corner near the ceiling and work down the wall in three-foot square sections. Spread the paint in a zigzag "M" or "W" pattern, beginning with an upward stroke to minimize spatter; then, without lifting the roller from the surface, fill in the zigzag pattern with even, parallel strokes.

SURFACTANT LEACHING:(top)

Concentration of water-soluble ingredients on the surface of a latex paint, typically on a ceiling surface in rooms that have high humidity (e.g., shower, bathroom, kitchen); may be evident as tan or brown spots or areas, and can sometimes be glossy, soapy or sticky.

POSSIBLE CAUSE:

All latex paint formulas will exhibit this tendency to some extent if applied in areas that become humid (bathrooms, for example), especially in ceiling areas.

SOLUTION:

Wash the affected area with soap and water, and rinse. Problem may occur once or twice again before leachable material is completely removed. When paint is applied in a bathroom, it is helpful to have it dry thoroughly before using the shower. Remove all staining before repainting.

WRINKLING:(top)

A rough, crinkled paint surface, which occurs when uncured paint forms a "skin."

POSSIBLE CAUSE:

Paint applied too thickly (more likely when using alkyd or oil-based paints).
Painting during extremely hot weather or cool damp weather, which causes the paint film to dry faster on top than on the bottom. Exposing uncured paint to high humidity levels. Applying top coat of paint to insufficiently cured primer. Painting over contaminated surface (e.g., dirt or wax).

SOLUTION:

Scrape or sand substrate to remove wrinkled coating. If using a primer, allow it to dry completely before applying top coat. Repaint (avoiding temperature! humidity extremes), applying an even coat of top quality interior paint.